B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar

#B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar mod
#B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar full
#B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar series

I made all the bits for the mod myself, as I couldn't find any stock items in my parts bin. Richard, are you using a Emmons bellcrank or that style of bellcrank? I use a GHS Boomer W22 on my JCH and I used too lower it a whole tone but it was stretching the life out of the return spring so I took it off.

#B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar full

Sonny, have you ever had string breakage on your steel guitars? How often do you tune your instruments? Do you lower the 5th and 6th strings on the E9th setup? Do you raise the 1st string a full tone? Does the second string lower 2 half steps accurately? I'm curious, perhaps you could answer a few of those questions. On My GFI or My Rittenberry and I Use Jagwire Strings. I Have No Problem With 3rd or 6th Strings. I might add that each reacts differently to extremes of hot and cold temperatures. Each string is like a thermometer, that is, absorbing cold or warm conditions, and moving up and down with the changes. A more complex problem ensues, due to the delicate responses of the 6th string, when for some reason all moving parts do not return to the absolute original positioning. This change would make necessary a readjustment to 'compromise' the slight change of pitch. The wound 6th 'B' string, with its thin bronze or nickel wrapping, is subject to constant bar wear, and the tensile strength changes gradually.

#B string returning flat on emmons steel guitar series

After a multiple series of raises, the string commences to enter the whiny hard to tune stage and in its subdued state, becomes faulty, and snaps.

Stressing the tensile strength of the 3rd string numerous times by pounding the 'B' pedal causes a gradual breakdown of the G# to 'A' raise. For what its worth, I've considered how friction and tensile strength share in the mixed bag of tuning/breaking events, as they can become overwhelming to say the least. Thanks to each of the forum members who have written interesting input, which for the most part, hints of 3rd and 6th string dilemmas. Thanks for the illustration which points to ingenious forethought on your part. The following sketches illustrate my mod easier than I can explain it: Most changers will raise the string a full tone, at least, so there is spare capacity in the raise finger if you only want a half-tone raise.

I too prefer a wound sixth, but since I'm dropping the sixth a whole tone I have to use a plain.ДЄ wound sixth can be lowered a full tone on an all-pull changer, with a bit of inginuity. I also change strings pretty often (every few weeks). I make sure to give it 5 or six turns around the tuning post. 012(!) on my Dekley 3rd string and it never breaks. This is a pretty common problem in the steel guitar community. My Sho~Bud doesn't have enough to lower a wound string a whole tone on the G#. However because I also lower a whole tone on that string I need the plain on it. I also do have tuning issues with my 6th string. Yes, if I do break a string it is usually a. I also think that an unwound 6th string does not 'sing' quite as well as a wound string. Also, an unwound 6th string can easily drift from its desired tuning when subject to minor changes in temperature. I agree, Bill, that the 3rd string is more prone to breaking than the others. 022 sixth fixed the tuning problem.ДЇrom: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) - The Final Frontier I solved the snapping third string by using a. There may be something wrong with the guitar. I own 3 steels a Zum, A Fessy and a Shobud. I have no problem with either 3rd or 6th string. The snapping 3rd and the detuning 6th are both part of the steel guitar experience. Speaking of the E9th tuning, my experience has been that the G# strings are the most troublesome. Your profile | join | preferences | help | search Classic country shuffle styles for Band-in-a-Box, by BIAB guru Jim Baron.